The Mother Ship, Venice

We sailed back to Pula and took a 3-hour ferry ride to Venice on our way home to attend Burning Man. We choose taking the ferry rather than sailing because we didn’t have to deal with all of the government paperwork of leaving Croatia, entering Italy and then coming back to Croatia. After spending so much time sailing into one Venetian outpost after another all through Croatia, coming into Venice felt like coming to the mothership. This is where all this commerce and political power was centered for centuries. There is no other city on earth like Venice. Its stately architecture combined with its unique waterways make it stand out in anyone’s book. You see the wealth in St Marco’s square and the commitment to make monuments that only the rich city coffers could afford. The kingpin to the square is Basilica di San Marco and attached Plazzo Ducale. It is crowned with sculpture treasure, and gold mosaic from all over the world. It was decreed by law in 1075 that every ship returning from abroad had to bring back a treasure to adorn this grand church. Legend has it that St Marks mortal remains are housed in the alter of this imposing church. The wealth of Venice was also spread out amongst its successful sea captains and merchant traders. A boat ride up the Grande Canal shows off the magnificent palaces they built right along the waters edge. Each building is supported by literally thousands of trees driven into the mud to hold them up. Despite all the sinking problems and erosion, one has to remember that parts of this city have been standing since the 10th century. The famous gondolas of Venice have been a part of the city since the 11th century. In 1562 it was decreed that all gondolas had to be painted black to stop people from making ostentatious shows of wealth. They may still all be black, but there is a bit of a rivalry to see who’s has the most plush velvet seating and brass ornamentation. There are only 300 gondolas allowed on the canals. So getting a license to own one of these cash cows is hotly contested. It is said that the truly wealthy citizens in Venice today are the men polling these ancient watercrafts.