Peeling Back Palermo

The first time I visited Palermo, I was a bit disappointed in its dilapidated state. Fountains that were once stately were falling apart. Government buildings built at a time of prosperity were crumbling. And much of the housing had seen better days 300 years ago. This city seemed to be falling down around their ears. I was not impressed. We are back in Palermo and decided to take another stab at the place. So last night we went out to absorb the vibe of the city. Yeah the place is still falling apart, but there is energy amongst the neighborhoods. There are hidden plazas that were once grand but now look more like a set from an apocalyptic movie. In the middle of the rubble there are street venders selling dinner off of carts, music is pulsing through the crowd, smiles come easy and comradery are strung together all to create an atmosphere of energy and community. We stop at a sidewalk grill for a delicious kabob sandwich. Sometimes food off the street is the best. I watch as the cook carefully takes pride in what he is about to serve us. There is no hurrying him as he layers our panini with lettuce, grilled chicken, tomatoes and special yogurt sauce. You can give the guy a 50-euro note and some one will melt into the crowd, but eventually comes back with your change. There is a feeling of pride and trust that is also a part of the streets. People seem to ooze out of the abandoned apartment buildings and come together despite what is happening to the physical world, readily share of themselves with perfect strangers. Easy smiles, lots of side cheek kisses and frequent embraces are also a part of Palermo after dark. The best part of travel is the people you meet and the best part of any city are the inhabitants. I love it.