This time of year, the weather is becoming problematic. Stronger winds and rougher seas are more common. We were only on Naxos for a day when the weather turned again to super strong winds. Everyone in the marina hunkered down by running extra lines from their boats to shore and tying the boats together for added protection. And the winds came with a vengeance. The open sea had wave height of almost 10 feet and winds up around 40 knots. Fortunately in the marina, it was just strong winds and a little rocky. Nothing like a safe harbor when mother nature decides to throw a tantrum.
We headed further south and spent a couple of days on Ios. It is an island much like Mykonos with a town nestled safely at the top of the hill. This city has the traditional narrow winding streets lined with whitewashed buildings selling postcards and all the souvenirs a tourist may need to remember this beautiful island. This time of year, the crowds are gone and it feels like you are walking through a movie set that once was teaming with actions. Lots of bars and nightclubs attest to the pulse of activity that is present during “the season”.
Sunday, May 16, 2010
The Cobalt Blue Waters of the Aegean
When you think of the Greek Isles with their whitewashed sculptural houses punctuated by deep blue shutters and doors, you are thinking of the Cyclades. It is a group of islands whose history goes back literally to the dawn of civilization. We headed from Athens to Siros, the capital of the Cyclades. It is a busy port with shipyards, and a quaint town. The whitewashed town starts at the waters edge and climbs like sugar cubes stacked up the side of the hill with a beautiful church crowned in light blue domes.
This group of islands get their name because they all circle around the island Delos, the birthplace of Apollo. Delos was considered a holy island to the ancient Greeks where no one was allowed to live or be born on. Still to this day, no one lives on the island and boats are not allowed to stay past 3 pm.
Perhaps the most famous of all the Cyclades is Mykonos. It is clearly the most popular tourist destination. While we were there 3 or 4 cruise ships would be anchored in the bay even during this time of year which is considered the off season. I can’t imagine the crowds that must pulse through the very narrow streets of this small village port during the summer. It was afternoon so we anchored out in Super Paradise Bay. Just a beautiful clothing optional beach. The far side near the rocks is the gay section. What a surprise huh? While we were anchored, a cute Greek swam out to met us. We welcomed him aboard an enjoyed spending time getting to know him. That night we anchored out in this serene bay. Early in the morning the first water taxi came into the bay packed with visitors. We were still hanging out naked and when we saw our friend from the day before, I waved. Well I guess that is all it took. All of the people on the packed boat waved back. Then I see about 30 cameras out taking snap shots of me and Steve. I guess they just needed to know I was friendly. We enjoyed another full day in the sun swimming off the boat, but strong winds were predicted so we headed to the new port that has been under construction for the past 7 or so years. It is almost completed, but still has not had the power or water turned on yet. Since we haven’t been in a port with electricity for almost 2 weeks, we were starting wring out the very last of the power stored in our batteries. The winds did come and though the new port is a little more protected than the old port, it was difficult for most boats to dock safely. We watched the harbor theater as boat after boat got blown into other boats by the strong gusts as they tried to reach the safety of the berth. Every available hand would scramble to the decks of the nearby boats and help with sliding fenders or pushing off until finally the boats settled into their slips. It was hard to watch, but a real lesson on what not to do in strong winds when coming into a berth.
We rented a scooter for 10 euro a day to explore the island and visit the famous beaches of Mykonos. We went back to Super Paradise Beach and while soaking in the sun, we started talking to a couple of Aussies, a Brit and a guy from Philadelphia. It was just one of those situations where everyone liked hanging out together. We ended up hanging out with this group for most of the week, going to dinner together and a couple of the gay disco clubs in the evening. One afternoon our international gang all came over to the boat and we sailed to a secluded bay on the north part of the island where we had lunch at a really great restaurant. Stuffed with traditional Greek cusine, we went back to the boat and hung out naked, toasting in the afternoon sun.
Towards the end of the week, the winds and sea finally calmed down enough to head out to Paros. We stayed there for a couple of days and then headed to Naxos.
This group of islands get their name because they all circle around the island Delos, the birthplace of Apollo. Delos was considered a holy island to the ancient Greeks where no one was allowed to live or be born on. Still to this day, no one lives on the island and boats are not allowed to stay past 3 pm.
Perhaps the most famous of all the Cyclades is Mykonos. It is clearly the most popular tourist destination. While we were there 3 or 4 cruise ships would be anchored in the bay even during this time of year which is considered the off season. I can’t imagine the crowds that must pulse through the very narrow streets of this small village port during the summer. It was afternoon so we anchored out in Super Paradise Bay. Just a beautiful clothing optional beach. The far side near the rocks is the gay section. What a surprise huh? While we were anchored, a cute Greek swam out to met us. We welcomed him aboard an enjoyed spending time getting to know him. That night we anchored out in this serene bay. Early in the morning the first water taxi came into the bay packed with visitors. We were still hanging out naked and when we saw our friend from the day before, I waved. Well I guess that is all it took. All of the people on the packed boat waved back. Then I see about 30 cameras out taking snap shots of me and Steve. I guess they just needed to know I was friendly. We enjoyed another full day in the sun swimming off the boat, but strong winds were predicted so we headed to the new port that has been under construction for the past 7 or so years. It is almost completed, but still has not had the power or water turned on yet. Since we haven’t been in a port with electricity for almost 2 weeks, we were starting wring out the very last of the power stored in our batteries. The winds did come and though the new port is a little more protected than the old port, it was difficult for most boats to dock safely. We watched the harbor theater as boat after boat got blown into other boats by the strong gusts as they tried to reach the safety of the berth. Every available hand would scramble to the decks of the nearby boats and help with sliding fenders or pushing off until finally the boats settled into their slips. It was hard to watch, but a real lesson on what not to do in strong winds when coming into a berth.
We rented a scooter for 10 euro a day to explore the island and visit the famous beaches of Mykonos. We went back to Super Paradise Beach and while soaking in the sun, we started talking to a couple of Aussies, a Brit and a guy from Philadelphia. It was just one of those situations where everyone liked hanging out together. We ended up hanging out with this group for most of the week, going to dinner together and a couple of the gay disco clubs in the evening. One afternoon our international gang all came over to the boat and we sailed to a secluded bay on the north part of the island where we had lunch at a really great restaurant. Stuffed with traditional Greek cusine, we went back to the boat and hung out naked, toasting in the afternoon sun.
Towards the end of the week, the winds and sea finally calmed down enough to head out to Paros. We stayed there for a couple of days and then headed to Naxos.
Welcome to the Aegean Sea.
First stop the island of Aegina. It is an island right off the coast of Athens. At night you can see the sprawling lights across the water twinkle up the hillside like a Christmas tree in October. Really a perfectly charming island with a bustling mix of restaurants and shops along the port. Boats are docked there with fresh vegetable stands spilling out onto the sidewalks as they set up their impromptu fruit stands. We shop for fresh ripe tomatoes plucked right from the vine and oversized watermelons that have to be eaten right away because they barely squeeze into our scaled down refrigerator.
The highlight of our stay was a visit from my sister and her husband. They have been enjoying a whirlwind trip through Europe and were finishing up in Athens. In the morning they took a ferry over to join us on a sightseeing excursion of the island. We had a little lunch on the boat and then rented a car to check out the historic ruins on Aegina. The best preserved is the temple of Aphaia. You have to marvel at the tall fluted columns and substantial pediments supporting this once grand temple. It is a feat of early engineering and craftsmanship. While time and weather has long since take away its polished surface, and knocked down a substantial part of its façade, the grandeur is not lost on us. In the late afternoon, the two of them caught the last ferry back to Athens. While the Acropolis and national museum should not be missed if you are in this area, the dirty and polluted city of Athens does not really seem that inviting to us. Since we have seen its historic treasures before, we decide to not stop there this trip through. Instead we head to the sun washed and whitewashed islands of the Cyclades.
The highlight of our stay was a visit from my sister and her husband. They have been enjoying a whirlwind trip through Europe and were finishing up in Athens. In the morning they took a ferry over to join us on a sightseeing excursion of the island. We had a little lunch on the boat and then rented a car to check out the historic ruins on Aegina. The best preserved is the temple of Aphaia. You have to marvel at the tall fluted columns and substantial pediments supporting this once grand temple. It is a feat of early engineering and craftsmanship. While time and weather has long since take away its polished surface, and knocked down a substantial part of its façade, the grandeur is not lost on us. In the late afternoon, the two of them caught the last ferry back to Athens. While the Acropolis and national museum should not be missed if you are in this area, the dirty and polluted city of Athens does not really seem that inviting to us. Since we have seen its historic treasures before, we decide to not stop there this trip through. Instead we head to the sun washed and whitewashed islands of the Cyclades.
From there we sail through the Corinth Canal.
South America has the Panama Canal. Greece has the Corinth Canal. Cut from limestone up to 250 feet deep, this waterway shortcut was first started by Nero using 6,000 Jewish slaves but he didn’t even get to the rock before insurrection in Gaul diverted his attention. Before that, the Romans would sometimes drag their ships across the dry land by putting logs under them and rolling the ships the 3.2 miles. It wasn’t to be completed until 1893. At each end of the canal, the roadways sink to the bottom rather than raising like a bridge. Really a cleaver way to deal with the heights required by cruise ships and big freighters, though I wonder how they can squeeze some of those monster liners through. It is only about 81 feet across.
The Gulf of Corinth
After almost a month and a half of the Ionian Islands, it is time to sail to Athens and the Aegean Sea. Connecting the two is the Gulf of Corinth. It is a two-day sail to Athens from Keffalonia. At the beginning of the strait is the city of Patros, the third largest city in Greece. Not a particular pretty city, but a port that has ferries coming in and out of it as often as the ringing of a church bell calling people to mass on Easter morning. There is a veneer of dirt and grime but underneath are wonderful plazas and thriving shopping districts. It is a bit of a shock from just leaving the solitude of the white sand beaches off the Ionians. There is not much between Patros and Athens except the jewel of ancient Greece, Delphi. Virtually a Mecca for worshipers of ancient Greek gods and drug-induced oracles guiding the superstitions of one of mans most ancient civilizations. In fact, many claim that western civilization started in Delphi. As worshipers came from all over the known world, they began the first exchanging of ideas. philosophy and finally trade. It is through this contact of multiple cultures that the ideas of self-rule and the dignity of man began to take shape. Delphi is built high on the cliffs overlooking a fertile valley of olive orchards that seem to go on as far as the eye can see. After the Acropolis, I would say that this site ranks as the second most important ancient site of antiquity. Don’t miss it if you are in this part of the world.
Keffalonia. Say that three times fast.
Ok this island is my favorite one to say. It sounds so exotic. Keffalonia. If it is possible, Keffalonia has even more beautiful beaches than Lefkada. The sand more fine, a little more pink and the bays a little more seductive. We continue to sail down the west side of the island to one of the top 5 beaches in all of Europe. It easily lives up to its sterling reputation. But instead we opt for one just a little further north for a much smaller and more intimate paradise. And for us, that day, it becomes our own private beach. There is no other way to get to it except by boat. The sheer cliffs that tumble down to the very edge of the beach make it our own fortress to lie around and soak in the Greek sun. In the afternoon, we do a little snorkeling exploring some caves and lagoons that have been carved out of the sandstone cliffs. If you like your beaches so peaceful that the only signs of human presence are your own footprints, head to the west side of Keffalonia.
The Rest Of the Ionians
This group of Greek islands is some of the most beautiful in the world. They sweep down the west coast of the mainland one right after the other like a rock skipping across the water. Corfu is the largest and most northern. Paxi, Lefkada, Ithaki, Keffalonia Kythira and Zakynthos follow as you make your way south. Unlike previous trips, this time we sailed down the west side of Lefkada. For some reason this side of the island has the most beautiful beaches. White sand with a slight tint of pink in it and long beaches awashed with the warm turquoise ocean surf. The land has sharp cliffs that have prevented much development on this side of the island. We are able to sail right into a deserted beach, anchor the boat and dive into the refreshing water. You can see the bottom of the ocean even when it is as deep as 50 feet. Yeah it is that clear. And the ocean temperature is around 86°, a far cry from the freezing waters of Northern California, makes it just that much more inviting. There are also no protective bays on this side of the island so we end up staying on the mainland of Greece that night near the southern end of the island.
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