Slipping Along the Coast of Slovenia

When we finally run out of Croatian coastline, we cross the invisible doted border into Slovenia. The towns along the sea are similar to the ones we just left. Mostly Venetian in their historical structure with a few modern hotels at their edge. We start at one end of the country and by noon we have eaten up over half of the Solvenia coast. At lunchtime we throw the anchor across the bow and hang out at the base of towering cliffs eating a pasta salad and dipping in and out of natures swimming pool at the stern of the boat. We could have easily made Italy with just a few more hours under sail. Venice is just across the bay and we are tempted to head over there the next day. But the thought of going through customs getting stamped stapled and verified for a few days on the canals turns our boat back to Croatia. We will be flying home through Venice anyway, so we will keep Venice for another day. By the time the sun is ready to turn the lights off on the day we are tucked safely in a deep bay that separates Croatia from Slovenia. I think our anchor is in one country and our boat is in the other.

So Far North

Good winds, flat seas and perfect weather come together like a well-rehearsed orchestra to make our trip up the Istras peninsula the perfect composition. We dart in and out of small bays that are linked together in the most northern part of Croatia. With the moderate weather, we are not too worried about good shelter, just good scenery. The towns have become mostly small villages. Each of them punctuated by a bell tower that soars heavenly and built on the highest point. Looking down from these celestial monoliths are red tiled roofs that step down the slope to the Adriatic Sea. The streets are more like alleys with crumbling shuttered buildings made festive by the days colorful laundry pinned to cording strung above our heads. Most of the streets are paved with stone block that have been there so long they have worn smooth to the point of being slippery. We are at the height of the tourist invasion and even in these small villages; there is a party mood that permeates the air. Loud music, dripping ice cream cones, gangly teenagers embarrassed to be with their parents fill the town square. Small children giggle with delight holding on to their parent’s hands with sticky fingers from the treats sold by vendors that line up on both sides of the strolling visitors like a corral making sure they don’t escape without emptying their wallets. Farmer markets greet us with quarter cut watermelons grinning their red smiles. Fresh vegetables are still weighed on a balance scale. The produce arrive from local farms still have the dirt that they were grown in clinging to them. We buy local breads baked that morning when the sun was just beginning to warm the day.

Raving

Rovinj The sun looks like an orb of butter as it slips below the horizon. On the opposite horizon, the white full moon rises in replacement. Across the bay lies the city of Rovinj. Its church at the very top of a symetrical hill. The town spiraling down around it in Venetian-style buildings plastered and painted in pastels. Looking across the bay, it is easy to picture this old city as it might have appeared centuries ago. We take our dingy into town as the sky is changing from blue to black. It is a city alive with energy and art and music. The narrow streets are filled with nooks hawking goods to the tourists that fill those narrow streets. A band is playing American cover songs that even in this distant country, the crowds lips sync up with the words. Young children dart back and forth amongst the gathered people playing children games and dancing to their parents amusement. If we ever stop to ask ourselves why we are here, the answer lies before us. We are a part of this. And yet we are observers looking from the outside in. Welcome to Rovinj.

The National Park of Brijuni

Just off the coast of Pula lie the Brijuni Archipelago islands. These 14 small islands became the playground of the rich Roman elite. Their beauty seems to be a magnet for the powerful even in modern times. When Tito rose to power after WWII, he chose these islands to govern from 6 months out of the year. I guess if you are going to be the leader of Yugoslavia, and these islands are part of your kingdom, why not move in for half the year and govern from there. Signing decrees and dispatching diplomats is every so more pleasurable from a beautiful island getaway. His own personal residence was a restored Venetian villa Tito would host heads of state and Hollywood’s elite from his private islands. There is an exhibit recording the famous procession of people that included Sophia Loren, Elizabeth Taylor and Richard Burton, other sex goddess. Tito had a fancy for exotic animals. So like Michael Jackson, on this neverland, Tito built his own private safari park. Many of the animals in this zoo were the gifts from the heads of state that paid him homage. With the death of Tito, most of the big game was shipped off to zoos. But there are still elephants, ostriches, zebras, peacocks and other African animals wandering around. You can also visit the ruins of the Roman villas from when they took up residence here to govern their subjects centuries ago.

Can’t This Country Keep It’s Clothes On?

There is no country in Europe that likes being naked more than Croatia. It all started when the Germans and Austrians ruled this corner of the world. Their love of nudity combined with the beauty of the coastline was all it took for this lifestyle to take off like a firestorm across a Kansas wheat field. Every beach and every major town has a nude beach close to it. At virtually all of these beaches, “the gays” have carved out their own little part, usually on the rocks and usually with bushes close by. What is the point of being naked if you can’t have a cruising place to dance around in. And it appears Croatians love camping naked as well. Just outside of Porec, there is a naturalists camp with 559 tent spaces as well as trailer hookups and apartments you can rent. If tht is a little too small of sampling of naked bodies, across the river is another naturalists camp that holds 3000 people. No, that is not the biggest. There is a camp further south that holds 6000 people in camp sites, villas and apartments. Nudity is such an accepted aspect of Croatian culture, almost every bay we drop our anchor, the majority of boaters will drop their textiles. We love anchoring right in front of the gay section and see what swims out. For some reason, running around naked on our beautiful boat is like a worm on a hook. Most of the time we catch some very cute naked friendly guys. And if that isn’t a friendly enough gesture, check out the statue I saw in Pula. Now you gotta love two hunky bronze guys forever caught in a compromising pose.

Praising Pula

The Bora winds kicking up gave us some extra time to explore the charming city of Pula. It is a port town that has been around since prehistoric times. Pula is most famous for the spectacular Roman ruins that are very well preserved scattered around the city like jewels in a treasure box. The crowning jewel of these treasures is the first century amphitheater that rises at the bay’s edge. This Roman structure is the sixth largest amphitheater in existence and one of the best preserved. The outer white stone walls are pretty much still intact. The seating in the center of the arena is about a fifth of what it once was. Many of the square seating blocks were removed in the 15th century to be used to construct a castle and other city buildings that are still around town. When built, the amphitheater held 25.000 spectators. These stunning architectural Roman masterpieces are still amazing examples of brilliant engineering. Gladiator fights have given way to opera, rock concerts and, while we were in town, an international film festival. It is nice to see these old structures still in used today. I think the Romans would have liked that. The town has the usual pedigree of invaders and conquerors. Nowhere is it more evident than in the town square. Holding the kingpin position is a Roman temple that is still largely intact. This temple was built in the first century and part of the original Roman forum that once made up the town square. Next to it is a building that looks like it was built during medieval times complete with carvings of dashing knights and majestic coat of arms. One of the walls is from a Roman temple to Athena; the wall is all that remains of this temple. To complete the town square are building built by the Venetians who ruled this city for 800 years. The rest of the gems scattered around town are Roman gates and arched monuments to the once powerful Roman elite. Even Hercules has a single arched gate that is one of the best-preserved Roman monuments in the city. At the top of the arch is a carving of the head of Hercules with a club signifying his strength.

Blowing Bora

The weather in Croatia has been very consistent and predictable all summer. It is one of the things that we have enjoyed most about this country. Mornings are calm and so is the sea. Towards noon, the winds pick up to a strong breeze and the sea remains flat. At 5 in the afternoon, usually within minutes, the winds die down to nothing. Water becomes as smooth as glass. You can often see 30-40 feet down to the sandy sea floor. We sleep uninterrupted on the hook as they say (at anchor) for the night. This has given us some of the best sailing in all of the Mediterranean and has allowed us to be under sail almost every day this summer. We managed to squeeze almost a whole month of sailing on one tank of petrol. You gotta love that. But this week, for three days that all changed. Croatia is also known for the famous Bora winds. Its name is uttered with respect and awe and always in hushed tones. The Bora are winds that mostly occur in the winter, but can occur in the summer as well. A high pressure in the Northeast and a low pressure in Italy cause these mighty winds. Cold air gets trapped in the mountains that build up pressure until they are released thundering down the slopes at velocities of up to 110 knots. This week we were treated to one of these occurrences. We monitor the weather closely each morning. The prediction was for a Bora in two days. That gave us plenty of time to head to a safe harbor and button down the hatches. We lashed extra lines to shore and waited. The winds came, not continuously, but with strong gusts that shook the boat and everything around it. Flags stiffened out like they have been starched. I had to tie Steve to the mast so I wouldn’t loose him. (well almost) We didn’t monitor the wind speed but some friends we met from Canada clocked the winds at their peak at 55 knots. We too now speak of the Bora with reverence and in hushed tones.