In the evenings we sometimes sit at a café right along the main street of town that we were at. Sometimes looking on as unobserved commentators, we would philosophize on the difference between Italians and others in the Mediterranean. While it is not unusual for most European cultures to be up late in the night and enjoy walks through the shops and restaurants, it is the Italians that bring this custom to an art. I am not sure how this evolved. Perhaps it is the very warm evenings. Maybe it is that little two-hour break during the day where most of the shops and businesses close. Or is it something that has just been for generations. In the evenings most people will start the evening meal at around 10 pm. You can go to a restaurant at 9 when they open for the evening and it will be completely empty. You think this must be a horrible place to eat. But come back an hour later and there won’t be a table to be had. If you arrive at 8pm, the place won’t even be open for business.
After the evening meal, people spill out of the restaurants and strolling up and down the main road in town. Shops are open and the participants are dressed to the nines. I am not talking about Sunday best. I am talking about dresses that would be appropriate for the social ball of the season. The perfect black dress or the glittery sequined red dress with various body parts oozing out in all the right places to attract attention. This outfit comes complete with very fashionable stiletto heels. Not a 4 or ever a 5-inch heel. I am talking about the devil wears Prada 6 or 7-inch stiletto heel. These are shoes I have not seen in the states for decades. And the women are not walking on smooth marble surfaces. The streets are rock blocks mortared together generations ago. Every crack and uneven block fitting together of these stones becomes a potential humiliating somersault. But the women hold their heads high and gracefully walk down the street as if they are wearing their most comfortable tennis shoes. Even the very little 7-year-old girls are walking in their two in training heels down the promenade.
And the men are not to be out done. They walk arm in arm or arms draped on each other’s shoulders in ways that would raise an eyebrow in most cities in America except maybe San Francisco. Their pants are tight and their shirts even tighter. They want every bulge and muscle to ripple through the fabric. Collars are turned up and accessories such as belts and shoes are all carefully placed and coordinated. You don’t see as many designer brands like you do in France, but the clothes on both men and women are all very stylish. There is a passion that flows through their personas and speech alike. This style is followed from even very young boys, certainly teenage, as well as the old guys. It is the Italian way.
Sunday, May 16, 2010
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