Wednesday, June 6, 2012

Raising the Bar

About an hour up the coast we sail into Montenegro. As we crossed over we spot three dolphins on the starboard side of the boat doing their signature half-crest dance across the flat sea. They break the surface and descend like a needle and thread stitching together the fabric of the sea. The landscape unfolds into rugged mountains capped with white clouds ascending to the pebble and sandy beaches that kiss the turquoise Adriatic Sea. Our entry into Montenegro begins at the town of Bar, a modern well laid out city with wide palm tree-lined walkways rimming grand boulevards. Things are better kept up than Albania. Clearly this nation prospered under a more democratic government. In the early afternoon, we slide into a well laid out marina. Big swells push us through the harbor entrance and the wind is picking up dramatically. We tie up to the side and cinch the lines to the cleats as the famous Bora winds kick in full force. The winds accelerate to the point where you can hardly stand up outside. Yeah these winds definitely live up to their reputation. But by evening, just a strong breeze is left behind. Bar is an ancient city that existed in prehistoric times. The Greeks and Romans put their stamp on it along with the usual string of Venetians, Turks and a host of other occupiers. The oldest resident however is an olive tree that is over 2000 years old, making it the oldest tree in Europe and one of the oldest trees in the world. It still looks like it is thriving. Maybe there is something to this olive oil helping you age gracefully. The old original settlement of Bar is 4 km inland perched on top of a steep cliff that makes it inaccessible from three sides. Most of the original fortification came during the 10th century, but additional growth and fortification continued for centuries. Most of the old town is a maze of rubble, but some of it has managed to withstand time and held up. The thick stonewalls that surround the city seem to be as strong as the day they were laid. Some reconstruction work has also been done. It started to drizzle so we head back down the hill on stone streets lined with small shops. We stop at a small café where the young smiling owner is thrilled to serve us and show us all the stonework and woodwork he has done on his shop to carve a business and a life for him self. We stay in Bar for a couple of days to deal with the paperwork it takes to sail in Montenegro before heading further up the coast to spectacular Kotor Bay.

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